After successfully campaigning our Grand Sports in vintage racing for 6 years, we decided to build a new series of racecars based on the 1969 Corvette. We debuted these cars at the September 2010 HSR race at Road Atlanta. We won both races, then won the SVRA race at Atlanta in October and the HSR race at Sebring the following weekend. In 2011, our first race with the HSR Walter Mitty at Road Atlanta which saw 74 cars in our group. We won that race as well. Our cars are built to comply exactly with SVRA Group 6 rules, however we have to significantly ballast them up to make the SVRA minimum weight. We offer this series of cars in both coupe and convertible configuration. If you are looking for a turn key sorted and proper SVRA or HSR car that can win, give us a call.


We can supply a roller or a complete car. There are too many options to list, but figure the roller is going to run between $80K and $100K. It will take us 3 months to build your car. If you want a frame with cage and body and you want to finish the car yourself, figure about half that.

If you already have a Corvette race car and want to upgrade it, we have listed below many of the major parts we have developed over the last 46 years. We use these parts in our racecars, so you will not have to reinvent anything. Our stuff works.

Racing Front Springs

We offer four options here, and admittedly there is a vast distance between them. Conventional wisdom has small block vintage Corvettes running 700 lb springs and big blocks running the heavier springs. The fact is, you want to run the softest springs you can. We run between 350 and 450 lb front springs in our big block cars, but our cars are fully sorted and adjustable, and that allows us to optimize spring rates. Contact us for front spring rates not listed.

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Note: Ride height will have to be adjusted by cutting the spring. Instructions are enclosed.

Racing & Hi-Performance Rear Springs

We offer seven spring rates for the vintage Corvette racer. To put these rates into perspective, the stock 9-leaf rear spring was 196 lbs, and the HD F41 rear spring was 330. We start with new steel leaves, and re-arch the main leaf to assure adequate spring rate at full droop. This is particularly important at Road Atlanta and Monterey. Again, you want to run the lightest spring rate you can and still not bottom out! A rear sway bar helps in this regard. We do not recommend fiberglass leaf springs for racing. Steel leafs progressively increase spring rates and allow for a greater range of rate from full droop to full bump. Fiberglass leaves are individually too stiff and too flat. Our cars are best with about a 300 lb. rear spring, but you will probably need more. Allow two weeks for fabrication. Free Freight

Moog Ball Joints

These special Moog Racing ball joints are US made, and they are the ones we use in our racecars

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Stock Front Sway Bar Assemblies

We offer three stock type front sway bars and the one racing front sway bar assembly that we use in our cars. Generally speaking, the softer the bar the better the traction, but if that were the whole story, we would be better off to have no front sway bar at all. When designing and building a car, many are considered in selecting the right sized front sway bar, but if you already have your car, perhaps you should consider only one: Does the car generally push (understeer)? If so, go smaller on the stock bar. If the front end is stuck but the rear end is always loose, go bigger. Our stock type front bars come with poly mounts and end links.
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Duntov HD Trailing Arm with Spherical Bearing

The trailing arm front bushing is the only bushing on the car that has to accommodate movement about an axis with a variable plane. All other bushings manage movement about an axis on a fixed plane. The trailing arm front bushing has to accommodate movement up and down in an arc. For that reason, its not possible to run solid steel bushings in your trailing arms. Your options are the stock rubber bushings which deflect with the arc, or poly bushings which are forced to deflect when put into a bind, and quickly wear an oblong hole. Our racing trailing arms start life as new OEM stock arms which we sandblast, reinforce with a continuous perimeter weld and add a .125 4130 steel plate on top to resist bending. We then weld in the spherical bearing. The collar shown pressed in place in the picture is designed to properly accommodate the bearing movement while still allowing conventional trailing arm shims.

Specify Driver or Passenger Side - Free Freight

Offset Trailing Arms with Spherical Bearings

These arms are offset 2 inches more than the stock arm. They are designed to accommodate wider wheels and tires by going inboard, but there is more to consider if you are going in that direction. There are three places where tire clearance is about the same on the inside; the arm, the frame directly over the axle centerline (when the suspension is in full bump) and the end of the leaf spring. Remember to figure in tire wall flex when evaluating the clearance between your tire and the sharp end of the rear leaf spring. The arms come with bearings welded in and includes the spacers and studs.

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Duntov Racing Trailing Arm Assemblies

Like vintage Corvette racing differentials, the trailing arm assemblies have to be set up with racing specs. Stock trailing arm specs call for up to 8 thousandths end play. Racing requires preload. These assemblies are the best of everything: A spherical bearing in place of the stock type front bushing, fully welded arm with 4130 reinforced steel plate on top, 4130 spindles, and ARP wheel studs. These can be ordered with or without parking brakes.

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